Must-See Stops on the Western Front Way

1. Porrentruy / Bonfol – Kilometre Zero

The Kilometre Zero marker stands at the foot of a reconstructed sentry hut, symbolizing the starting point of the Western Front. Approaching the site, the landscape opens into a strikingly long clearing, evoking the atmosphere of No-Man's Land, with tall pine trees standing like sentinels on either side. From this point, the frontline extended all the way to Nieuwpoort in Belgium. Between 1871 and 1914, this area gained prominence as a meeting point of three frontiers—France, Switzerland, and Germany—becoming a popular tourist attraction celebrated in international postcards. Following its absorption into the German Empire after the Franco-Prussian War in 1871, the French sought to reclaim Alsace, seizing the opportunity with the outbreak of the First World War. For every metre of the Western Front Way you hike or bike, it is a sobering reminder that 17 people lost their lives.

2. Cernay – German Military Cemetery

The battles fought between 1914 and 1916 to seize the ridges of the Vosges and the Hartmannswillerkopf "Vieil-Armand" battlefield, located above Cernay, were especially brutal. Established in 1920, this cemetery was created to consolidate the remains of German soldiers who had been laid to rest across southern Alsace. Today, it serves as the final resting place for over 8,000 soldiers. Over 40,000 French were killed trying to take back the peaks. The most southerly CWGC soldier, GF Bond, is buried in the Cernay municipal cemetery. Bond had been captured in Ypres as a POW in 1916 but died of influenza in 1918.

3. Hartmannswillerkopf – Hartmannswillerkopf

Hartmannswillerkopf, also known as Vieil Armand or 'Man-Eater Mountain', offers an immersive experience following a path that traverses some of the 60km of trench lines and 600 bunkers (if walking). During the First World War, this area of the Front line quickly reached a state of stabilization after intense fighting between December 1914 and January 1916. Subsequently, the focus shifted to the northern section of the Front lines. Throughout the conflict, neither side experienced significant territorial gains or losses in this region. However, the toll of the war was severe, resulting in an estimated total of 25,000 fatalities. The memorial also houses a museum, open from 10h00 to 17h00 (closed on Mondays), offering visitors free access to explore.

At certain points along this Front line, a mere 22 meters separated the opposing forces, necessitating absolute silence to maintain the delicate balance. The contrast between the opposing trenches is notable, as the German Imperial Army reinforced their positions with sturdy concrete, while the French relied on more rudimentary structures constructed from wood and turf.

4. Leintrey – Les Etomniors de Leintrey

Leintrey is home to a sacred space, the Ossuary of 'Les Entonnoirs', translated as 'Shell Hole Cemetery'. Set back from the road, you walk down a wide, grassy avenue between sparse trees clearly growing in and around what is left of trenches. It almost demands your silence.

Between 10 - 11th July 1916, five German Imperial Army mines which had been placed under the French trenches were detonated killing half of the company on the front line in seconds. Here too is the headstone to Lieutenant Nissim de Camondo & Lieutenant Lucien des Essarts, both of whom were shot down in their Farman F.130, a single engine biplane used by the French in the First World War. Nissim was repatriated at Montmartre in Paris after the war, and his father, Moïse de Camondo, heartbroken by the death of his son donated his entire collection of 18th Century art to France, the museum in Paris in his name testament to his grieving. Moïse was a very successful banker, who later would be heartbroken again when his daughter was sent to Auschwitz.

5. Dannemarie – Memorial Haut-Alsace

The Memorial Haute-Alsace is a museum that presents the history of the Alsace region, particularly the Sundgau area, during World War I. It includes the exhibition called "Les Tranchées Oubliées" (The Forgotten Trenches). The museum showcases local events and personalities, such as Corporal Jules-André Peugeot and Second Lieutenant Mayer. The notable meeting of these two men that is highlighted is the drama of Joncherey, which took place 20 km from the memorial. This event occurred 36 hours before the official start of the war between France and Germany. We hope this has raised your curiosity!

6. Le Grand Ballon – Le Grand Ballon

With its highest peak at 1424 metres in altitude, the Grand-Ballon is the highest summit in the Vosges mountains. At the very top sits the monument to the Blue Devils, 'Diables Bleus', 'The Mountaineer Battalion', and 'Chasseurs Alpins' from the First World War. They were known for their skills of alpine combat, for their gruelling training programme and for always being the first to go over the top in the trenches. They wore blue capes and berets which captured the imagination of the French people and are widely acknowledged to be the first military group to wear the beret in combat, now common among the military forces globally.

They became one of the most well known and respected groups of fighters in the southern section of the Western Front, and often recruits came from the very places they would fight in. Their ability to survive in the harshest conditions saw them immortalised in the public conscious and in this monument they are remembered thanks to the initiatives of the French Alpine Club and the Club Vosgienne.

8. Montauville (Pont-a-Mousson) – The Priest's Wood

Fighting in the Bois-le-Prêtre was the setting of violent close-quarter combat between the French and German Imperial Armies from September 1914 to July 1915. It is regarded as one of the closest that the trench-lines ever ran together along the entire 1000km Western Front, in some places trenches only 15m apart and within range of a hand grenade being thrown into the opposing trench. The fighting here was carried out in the main through skirmishes and night time raids opposed to large scale pitch battles.

For the German Imperial Army, the wood was essential to take quickly and hold onto for their march towards Verdun. Equally, the French needed to hold the line here to ensure the city of Verdun was not surrounded on all sides. Under the command of Joffre, the French army withstood repeated assaults and a relentless effort to dislodge them with mines dug in under their trench lines by German army tunnellers. The Croix des Carmes nearby memorialises the men who fought and died here, including the infamous 'Wolves of the Priest’s Wood', the French 128th Division, renowned for attacking at night and their unwillingness to surrender against seemingly impossible odds. After the war, the land and the surrounding villages were so destroyed it was declared a Red Zone and the public were not allowed access.

The "Wolves of the Priests Wood" is a term that refers to a group of resistance fighters who operated in the Maison du Père Hilarion during World War II. The Maison du Père Hilarion was a resistance network established by Father Hilarion, a French priest, to aid and shelter soldiers and refugees, as well as to gather intelligence against the German occupation forces.

9. Montauville (Pont-a-Mousson) – Croix de Carme

Located within the front lines until June 7, 1915, this site was the scene of fierce battles, where this cross once stood. The Croix des Carmes memorialises the men who fought and died here, including the infamous 'Wolves of the Priest’s Wood'. It features the large cross, with each of its transverse arms supported by a Poilu—one dressed in a uniform from the beginning of the war and the other in a uniform from the end of the war. The original wooden cross is embedded within the masonry of the structure.

10. Saint-Dié-des-Vosges – Saint-Dié-des-Vosges

Saint-Dié-des-Vosges holds the distinction of being the place where the term "America" was first used on a printed map, bestowing upon it the title of "godmother of America" as the city that named the continent*

The Pierre-Noël Museum contains some poignant artefacts from the First and Second World Wars, located in the basement of the impressive museum. Amongst original armour plating and a vast collection of helmets from most nations involved in the conflict, there is a signed flag by both the supreme commander of all Allied forces, Ferdinand Foch and General John J Pershing, commander of all American forces on the Western Front. In one of the display cases is a Verdun commemorative medal, awarded to all soldiers who fought there and is extremely rare. Also, there is an excellent display cabinet showing the evolution of the French uniform throughout the First World War. In 1914, French soldiers still wore the red trousers, breastplates and plumed helmets which had largely remained unchanged since the Napoleonic Wars. By 1915, with a need for more camouflage and speed of production, 'Horizon Blue' was adopted. It is very much synonymous with the Poilu and although they preferred it to the uniforms of 1914 it was much better suited to winter being of wool base.

* The term "America" was coined in Saint-Dié-des-Vosges. In August 1507, a map called the "Map of the World" or the "Universalis Cosmographia" was printed in St-dié-des-vosges. This map, created by German cartographer Martin Waldseemüller and his collaborator Matthias Ringmann, is significant because it was the first to include the name "America" to label the newly discovered continent of the New World. The naming was in honour of the Italian explorer Amerigo Vespucci, who had explored the coast of South America and contributed to the understanding of the continent's geography.

11. Ban-de-Sapt – Nécropole Nationale de La Fontenelle

The Nécropole Nationale de La Fontenelle is directly on the front line and where you will have the opportunity to explore clearly marked trench lines and bunkers. Within the grounds of the nécropole, 1384 soldiers are laid to rest. The monument itself, dedicated "To the Valiant Defenders of the Vosges Soil," was created in May 1920. It was intentionally built in the exact location where the battle took place.

One notable feature of the nécropole is the 'Emile Bachelet Commemorative Monument'. This showcases four figures: a Poilu facing the German border to the East, symbolizing the soldiers' courage and determination, while Victoria, the goddess of victory, embodies the triumph of the human spirit. Additionally, two mourners stand as a symbol of the collective grief and remembrance.

12. Domjevin – Domjevin Military Hospital

This military hospital is preserved almost exactly as it was at the conclusion of the First World War. Follow a small white sign that directs you to the hospital, nestled behind a cluster of trees. However, exercise caution when entering, as it is done so at your own risk. Inside, you will see the archways adorned with original stone and sheet iron. It can be quite dark, necessitating the use of a torch.

Constructed in 1916 with anticipation of future conflicts after the Battle of Lorraine, the hospital's purpose shifted to Verdun, rendering it dormant and untouched. Its design aimed to provide shelter to wounded soldiers in the event of intense bombardment, a recurring situation in this particular sector during 1914 and 1915. Equipped to accommodate 50 individuals in beds and an additional 100 in chairs, the hospital also boasted essential amenities such as a shop, a kitchen, sleeping quarters for surgeons, an arms depot, electric radiators, and a comprehensive ventilation system.

Please note that while this extraordinary hospital remains accessible, it is crucial to exercise caution as you explore.

13. Lunéville – Lunéville

At the heart of Lunéville stands 'The Little Versailles,' a magnificent château that served as the prestigious residence of the Dukes of Lorraine from the 13th century. It remained their home until the death of the last duke, King Stanisław Leszczyński of Poland, who was granted the Duchy of Lorraine in 1735 as compensation for losing the Polish crown. Leszczyński tragically died at the age of 88 in 1766 after a spark from his fireplace ignited his sleeping attire, causing fatal burns. The elegant Place Stanislas in Nancy, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, was named in his honour.

14. Nancy – Nancy

Nancy is a historic city renowned for its stunning 18th-century architecture, including the UNESCO-listed Place Stanislas, often regarded as one of the most beautiful squares in Europe. It served as a strategic stronghold during World War I, playing a crucial role in the defense of France against German advances in the Battle of Grand Couronné in 1914. Fought from August 14 to 26, 1914, it was a significant early engagement in World War I, where French forces successfully defended the fortified region around Nancy against a German offensive during the initial phase of the war. The term "couronné" translates to "crowned," referring to the hilly terrain that resembled a crown, providing the French forces with strategic advantages during the battle.

15. Montsec – Montsec American Memorial

A lasting symbol of cooperation between France and the United States, in honour of the 550,000 American troops involved in the Meuse-Argonne offensive in 1917 and 1918. Montsec was a veritable stronghold and remained in German hands for four years. With its height, it can be seen for miles around. It has 360 degree observation, and during the war it was a impregnable fortress that took the following amount of resources to take it: 550,000 American soldiers, 110,000 French soldiers, 1,481 planes, 400 tanks, 3000 artillery pieces and 3,300,000 rounds of ammunition to finally topple Montsec.

During the Second World War the site was damaged with the Nazi's once again using Montsec as an observation point, and it was repaired after the war. The Montsec site is maintained by the American Battle Monuments Commission who unveiled the stunning memorial in 1937.

16. Fleury-devant-Douaumont – Mémorial de Verdun

Located at the heart of the historic battlefield, the Mémorial de Verdun museum is the tribute to the Battle of Verdun, a pivotal event during World War I that unfolded in 1916. Since its inauguration in 1967, it not only houses a vast collection of war artifacts, including weapons, uniforms, and personal belongings of soldiers, but also offers a profound exploration of the conflict's political, military, social, and cultural dimensions. However, the significance of Mémorial de Verdun extends beyond its role as a museum. It serves as a place for remembrance and contemplation, inviting visitors to immerse themselves in extensive grounds. There are very good cafe and facilities and delightful staff.

17. Douaumont-Vaux – Douaumont Ossuary

The Battle of Verdun raged for 300 days and 300 nights, during which 26,000,000 shells were fired. 700,000 soldiers were wounded, and 300,000 were killed on both sides. After the end of the war, The French government was left asking what to do with the bodies who could not be identified.

Charles Ginisty, the Bishop of Verdun, came up with the proposal for the Ossuary which would take 12 years to build. There were 130,000 unidentified soldiers killed in action whose bones were collected and placed inside the Ossuary, still visible today through the small square, glass windows as you walk around. When the idea gained traction for an Ossuary of such a scale, both Foch and Pétain stood behind the idea as did 122 French cities that funded the project. The word 'Pax' above the door is prominent, and every night the lights at the top are illuminated as a 'lantern for the dead' for those bodies still to be found to make their way to the Ossuary. Either side of the Ossuary central building are memorials to the Jewish and Muslim soldiers who fought for France, and in the centre on the grass in front of the Ossuary tower shaped like a shell are the bodies of 15,000 French soldiers.

18. Douaumont-Vaux – Fort Douaumont

Fort Douaumont, an imposing stronghold encircling Verdun, became the epicenter of one of the most grueling battles in the entire war. In 1915, under the assumption that the fort would quickly succumb to the destructive power of the German heavy guns, its main armament and defenses were stripped away, rendering it nearly defenseless. Then, in February 1916, 100 German soldiers stealthily infiltrated the fort through an open window, establishing control. Leveraging the fortress's immense structure, they utilized it as a strategic repository for ammunition, personnel, and supplies, while skillfully operating the retractable gun turrets.

For an arduous period of eight months, the German army maintained its grip on the fort. A French commander lamented that surrendering the fort without resistance had resulted in a staggering loss of 100,000 lives. The French launched relentless attacks, paying a steep price, in their relentless quest to reclaim the fort. Finally, in October, with the assistance of two railway guns named 'Alsace' and 'Lorraine,' and armed with meticulously detailed maps of the fort, the French succeeded in retaking Fort Douaumont.

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The haphazard handling of flamethrower fuel led to a catastrophic chain of events for those inside Fort Douaumont. Flames engulfed an ammunition store and exploded, resulting in the loss of approximately 700 German soldiers. It was determined that transporting their bodies outside for burial was too hazardous. As an alternative, the soldiers were laid to rest within a secure chamber inside the fort, which was subsequently sealed off.

19. Cheppy – Cheppy Monument

The Cheppy Monument was erected by the state of Missouri to honour American soldiers who fought and died in the Meuse-Argonne Offensive, especially those from Missouri. The memorial features a commanding statue of a winged Victory and commemorates the sacrifices of the American Expeditionary Forces (AEF) who fought in this region. The Meuse-Argonne campaign, launched in September 1918, was the largest and bloodiest operation for the AEF during World War I. Cheppy marked the beginning of the offensive, where soldiers of the 35th Division, including Harry S. Truman, saw action. The town and the area around the monument offer visitors insight into the immense scale and intensity of the offensive. The Missouri monument is one of several American markers in the region paying tribute to fallen troops and their key role in bringing World War I to a close.

20. Vauquois – Butte de Vauquois

Butte Vauquois is well worth the hill, and as you reach the summit, you’ll find yourself facing the enormous crater, accompanied by three photographs captured by a German soldier at the moment the mines detonated.

Vauquois Hill, once home to a thriving village, was completely erased from the map during the war. In September 1914, the German Imperial Army seized the hill, but the French retook it just 12 days later. Its strategic value is immediately apparent through its panoramic views, explaining why it was so fiercely contested, with control of the hill changing hands repeatedly for months. From its heights, German artillery could target the railways to Verdun, making it vital for the French to regain it whenever it fell.

Even by Western Front standards, the proximity of the opposing forces here was extreme—so close that both sides could reach each other with flamethrowers and chlorine gas canisters. Neither side would give ground, and with expertly positioned machine gun nests across No-Man's Land, the conflict inevitably went underground. Intense tunneling began, with the Germans digging at three depths—45, 90, and 135 feet. On May 14, 1916, a mine was detonated beneath the French lines, burying 100 men instantly, never to be seen again. Despite this, the French refused to surrender the hill, and fighting persisted until early 1918, making Vauquois one of the most fiercely contested and protracted sites on the front. (In the Vauquois Mairie building, visitors can find clean restrooms and access to fresh water.)

21. Servon-Melzicourt – Vallée Moreau

Vallée Moreau is an immaculately preserved camp right in the centre of where the Battle of the Marne reached its crescendo. There is a vast bunker system that can be visited with a guide and a German Imperial Army monument with the Imperial Eagle on the top of it, a rare sight to find a German monument in such good condition.

This section of the frontline was crucial not just in the context of the Battle of the Marne, but the entire First World War. At the end of 1914, the German Imperial Army appeared unstoppable, pushing west quickly with the French and British armies retreating. It was here at the Marne that the French turned to fight, knowing only too well that this was their best and last defendable position before Paris. If Paris fell, so did France and the war would be lost. The French fought ferociously, and as legend has it, so close run was the battle, General Gallieri called in the use of 600 Parisian taxis which brought men directly from the streets of Paris to where the battle was at its zenith.

The French army punched a hole in the German lines, splitting the 1st and 2nd German Imperial armies. The German high-command, fearing encirclement of its armies retreated and it brought an end to the Schlieffen Plan, effectively the fast fall of France and winning the war in months. Moltke who had overseen the initial months of the war suffered from a nervous breakdown when he heard the news, and having witnessed the failure to get to Paris wrote to the Kaiser 'Your majesty, we have lost the war.'

22. Virginy – La Main des Massiges

The Main de Massiges was a natural fortress and key strategic location during the First World War, positioned perfectly along the top of a ridge line, directly in between the two key battle areas of the Ardennes and Champagne. At the start of the war it was the centre of brutal and repeated fighting, with over 25,000 soldiers from both the French and Imperial German armies repeatedly either attacking or defending the ridge. After the Battle of the Marne, with the German Imperial army in retreat, French colonial troops took up positions here and held it. It is named 'Main' - the word for hand in French - because as seen from above it resembles a left hand, the length of each finger was a natural small dip in the land providing cover.

After the initial trench warfare phase, the site was repeatedly the attack of mine warfare, with soldiers from both sides tunnelling right up to underneath the crest of the ridge before detonating their mines to cause maximum damage.

This historic site was nearly lost to the elements, but bought by a local group in 2008 who have reinterpreted this as an outdoor museum with restored trenches, barbed wire, a railway track and observation posts. During this process they discovered an original trench which has also been fully restored. It is worth noting this is both private land and a tomb. Of the hundreds of sites along the WFW, this remains one of the most popular with walkers and cyclists.

23. Vienne-le-Château – La Harazée Necropolis & Argonne Forest

La Harazée Necropolis lies at the base of the hills where, in 1915, during the Battle of Argonne, the men honoured here repeatedly attacked and died in the effort. Ahead of you is La Gruerie Forest, known to French soldiers as 'Slaughter Wood.' Unlike many other battlefields, it was not artillery that proved decisive in this dense, treacherous terrain, but machine gun fire. The entrenched positions, nearly impossible to approach through the thick woods and steep slopes, meant that soldiers were cut down by expert machine gunners the moment they left their dugouts. These woods visibly and hauntingly contain the trench lines and structures as you go throughout.

The fighting here was intense, and Marc Bloch, a French soldier who fought in the region, later wrote influential war notes that became widely recognized as a defining account of the Battle of the Argonne in the forests. Bloch was executed as a resistance fighter in 1944 and is also buried here. Many others who fought on the front have written about their experiences, providing some of the most vivid and insightful accounts of the war. Notable writers include Henri Barbusse, Jaroslav Hašek, C.S. Lewis, J.R.R. Tolkien, Ernst Jünger, Erich Maria Remarque, and Emilio Lussu.

24. Varennes-en-Argonne – Varennes-en-Argonne

The Pennsylvania Memorial in Varennes-en-Argonne is a vast and impressive war memorial in a comparatively small town. Constructed in a Greek style, the memorial offers a viewing platform that provides a picturesque view of the Aire valley. It was erected in 1927 by the state of Pennsylvania as a symbol of gratitude and appreciation for the service of their troops during the war, designed by Paul Cret with Thomas H. Atherton. Cret had gone to the United States in 1903 to teach at the University of Pennsylvania but served with the French army.

Between the towns of Varennes-en-Argonne and Vienne-le-Chateau, you will traverse the Argonne Forest, where you will pass through a forested section featuring clearly defined trenches.

Varennes-en-Argonne marked itself into the history books forever in June 1791 when Louis XVI, with his immediate family, were intending to flee to Austria. They were seeking support in Marie-Antoinette's country of birth and where her brother was Holy Roman Emperor. But in Varennes, Louis and his family were caught and arrested, thanks to the local postmaster. It is said that at Sainte-Menehould, where the escaping party had spent the previous night, a merchant informed the town authorities of their presence after recognising the King's face on an Assignat - a monetary bill used during the Revolution. Having been apprehended, once more the royal family returned to the Tuileries in humiliating captivity, and Louis and Marie-Antoinette were subsequently guillotined in 1793.

25. Crisolles – Crisolles Monument

Just outside of Crisolles is the enormous, square monument to the 9th, 10th and Premier divisions of France who stopped the German Imperial Army at this exact spot as they approached Noyon in 1918. This was directly on their route to Paris and if the German Army had broken through, the consequences for the French and indeed the entire Allied armies could have been disastrous. It is an extraordinary monument, there are few others like it along the entire 1000km, it is both stark and brutal in its design.

Crown Prince Wilhelm, son of the Kaiser, also had his headquarters in Crisolles. In 1918, Crisolles was taken in the German Spring Offensive, and then again by the Allies in the Hundred Day Offensive. As a result of being in the centre of two major offensives, the village was deemed destroyed with no buildings left standing. The village was decorated with the Croix De Guerre after the First World War, but was the centre of conflict again in the Second World War. One of the first and most active organisations of the Resistance was that of the Communists in the Noyonnais, as well as the 'ancien combattants' (veterans) of the First World War who had a base here. They were some of the first to organise resistance groups and succeeded in the recovery of abandoned weapons. With their knowledge of handling munitions and combat techniques they caused havoc for the Nazis in the area.

26. Reims – Reims Cathedral

Reims is the heart of Champagne.

During the outbreak of the First World War, the city of Reims found itself caught in the decisive manoeuvring of the German Imperial Army, as they advanced. Reims, being the largest city along these trails, fell under German occupation.

Tragically, the city's iconic cathedral suffered significant damage during the German Imperial Army's occupation on September 4th, 1914. Explosions shattered the cathedral's stained glass windows, and a shell struck the statue of an angel on the facade. On September 13th, the French successfully recaptured Reims; however, relentless German shelling persisted, resulting in a catastrophic fire that consumed the entire cathedral structure.

The monumental task of reconstruction fell under the careful supervision of architect Henri Deneux. Years of dedicated efforts culminated in the reopening of the cathedral in 1938, with the repair costs covered by contributions and the generous support of American business magnate John D. Rockefeller.

Notably, Reims holds historical significance as the site where the Second World War officially came to a close. The Armistice was signed here on May 7th, 1945.

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At the centre of the city is Reims Cathedral, long the symbol of the city and a potent image for all of France. Reims has a well-established history, from its days as a bustling hub of the Roman Empire, to becoming a centre of French culture in the early Middle Ages. Additionally, Reims became known as the City of Kings, the traditional location for the coronation of French kings. Inside the Cathedral on the right hand side is a stone plinth showing the names of all the 31 kings that were coronated here.

27. Craonne – Observation Tower Chemin des Dames

The observatory tower dominates the California Plateau which was a strategic centre on the Chemin des Dames during the First World War. With a height of 20 meters and freely accessible, views along the entire Chemin des Dames are possible. This reinforces the importance for armies to hold the highest possible points of topography along the ridgeline during the war. From the very top there are incomparable views of the Chemin des Dames and the region around Champagne. At night the tower is lit in observance of remembrance, the idea being that in the day we overlook the plains and at night it is reversed and the plains can observe the protective ridge. On the noticeboard there is copy of a pencil drawing of French soldiers marching with their kit, but it is their eyes that can be interpreted as determination, quasi-delirium and grit.

It is understood that a mansion with a small zoo and a garden were planted here with exotic trees and plants native of America. As a result, this garden became known as Jardin de Californie but was renamed Plateau de Californie during the war.

28. Oulches-la-Vallée-Foulon – Chemin des Dames

The Chemin des Dames is a prized location atop of the heights, with excellent visibility and underground quarries. Seen by the likes of Julius Caesar and Napoleon, as well as being a focal point for some of the most infamous fighting of the French army during the First World War, it was to become a veritable fortress. It is called the Chemin des Dames due to Louis XV's daughters travelling through it on their way to Paris to meet their governess.

In September 1914, after the battle of the Marne, the Imperial German Army drew back to the Chemin des Dames, determined to hold it as British and French attacks failed on repeat up the steep slopes. In 1917, the Germans turned the largest quarry here into the Caverne Du Dragon, or Drachenhöhle, where, 15 meters below ground, men and ammunition storage would be safe from falling artillery. By April 1917, with the Chemin des Dames seemingly unbreakable, the French amassed 1,000,000 men to attack but a combination of appalling weather conditions, perfectly placed German machine guns and no way to evacuate the wounded, it led to a massacre. The disastrous offensive sparked the spread of insubordination among the French army and the term 'trench striking' was born, seeing over 200 arrests and 27 soldiers shot as an example to others, (it should be noted that those 27 had taken shots at senior officers with weapons).

Regathering strength, and with the aid of vastly superior and amassed artillery, the victory for the French at the Battle of Malmaison in October 1917 gave them control of the Chemin des Dames at last, but not for long. The German Imperial Army Spring Offensive of 1918 pushed the French and British back over the Aisne leaving the doorway open to Paris again, but with the Imperial German Army supply chain stretched to breaking point, and fighting in open country without defences, the Germans lost the ridge again for the last time in October 1918.

Set beautifully into the landscape, the Interpretation Centre here is a must-visit, even if only to stop by the vast gift shop and excellent coffee machine. You can overlook the valley from their viewing platform and understand the difficulties the soldiers faced trying to scale the ridge and the tactics used.

28. Compiègne – Armistice Carriage

The Armistice was signed at Le Francport near Compiègne that ended fighting on land, sea and air in World War I between the Allies and their last remaining opponent, Imperial Germany. The 'Armistice of Compiègne' was officially signed at 5:12 a.m. by the Allied Supreme Commander, French Marshal Ferdinand Foch. It came into force at 11:00 a.m. Paris time on 11 November 1918 and marked a victory for the Allies and a defeat for Imperial Germany, although not formally a surrender.

The actual terms, which were largely written by Foch, included the cessation of hostilities on the Western Front; the withdrawal of German forces from west of the Rhine; Allied occupation of the Rhineland and bridgeheads further east; the preservation of infrastructure, the surrender of aircraft, warships, and military materiel; the release of Allied prisoners of war and interned civilians; eventual reparations; no release of German prisoners and no relaxation of the naval blockade of Germany. The Treaty of Versailles, which was officially signed on 28 June 1919, took effect on 10 January 1920.

BONUS CONTENT:
Fighting continued right up to 11 a.m. of the 11 November 1918, with 2,738 men dying on the last day of the war. “And this is the end of it. In three hours the war will be over. It seems incredible even as I write it. I suppose I ought to be thrilled and cheering. Instead I am merely apathetic and incredulous...There is some cheering across the river—occasional bursts of it as the news is carried to the advanced lines. For the most part, though, we are in silence... With all is a feeling that it can’t be true. For months we have slept under the guns... We cannot comprehend the stillness.” – Robert Casey, Battery C, 124th Field Artillery Regiment, 33rd Division, November 11, 1918.

29. Péronne – Historial de la Grande Guerre

This royal residence can be traced back to the Merovingian era. Through meticulously curated displays, the museum presents a comprehensive narrative, covering various aspects of the war, including the social, political, and cultural dimensions. It pays homage to the soldiers, their personal stories, and the challenges they faced on the frontlines. Additionally, the museum explores the wider societal impact of the war, examining the profound changes it brought about in terms of technology, medicine, and social norms. It is a jewel in the crown of museums along the Western Front & well worth taking the time to visit.

Few towns have been as involved in the history of France, and few towns so often devastated, as Péronne. Burned and pillaged in the time of the Normans; gravely damaged during the time of the Spanish occupation; devastated by the Germans in 1870; totally destroyed in 1917, then bombarded and burned in May 1940 by the Luftwaffe.

30. Villers-Bretonneux – Sir John Monash Centre

"The Sir John Monash Centre tells Australia’s story of the Western Front in the words of those who served.

Set on the grounds of the Villers-Bretonneux Military Cemetery in northern France, and adjacent to the Australian National Memorial, the Sir John Monash Centre is the hub of the Australian Remembrance Trail along the Western Front, and establishes a lasting international legacy of Australia’s Centenary of Anzac 2014–2018.

This cutting-edge multimedia centre reveals the Australian Western Front experience through a series of interactive media installations and immersive experiences. The SJMC App, downloaded on each visitor’s personal mobile device, acts as a ‘virtual tour guide’ over the Villers-Bretonneux Military Cemetery, the Australian National Memorial and the Sir John Monash Centre.

The experience is designed so visitors gain a better understanding of the journey of ordinary Australians — told in their own voices through letters, diaries and life-size images — and connect with the places they fought and died. A visit to the Sir John Monash Centre will be a moving experience that leaves a lasting impression." - The Sir John Monash Centre website

31. Albert – The Golden Virgin

In 1915 a German Imperial Army shell struck the top of the Basilique Notre-Dame de Brebières, damaging the support of the gold statue of the Madonna and caused it to lean, but not topple over. It stayed like this, facing downwards onto the Place d'Armes for the duration of the hostilities. A superstition took hold among the soldiers, believing that the war could only end when the Madonna finally succumbed to her leaning posture. Yet, despite the tumultuous times, she remained steadfast, embodying the resilience of Albert. Seeing this resolute golden figure is a rewarding sight as you travel towards her and see the figure those soldiers saw.

Restored after the war, the golden statue of the Madonna holding aloft her child can be seen for miles around, it is a beacon to aim for from both North and South. Though untoppled, the image of Albert's "Leaning Virgin" captured the hearts of WWI soldiers, resonating with their unwavering spirit. It became a beacon of hope.

32. Beaumont-Hamel – The Beaumont-Hamel Newfoundland Memorial

By bike, the trail currently goes along a short detour towards The Beaumont-Hamel Newfoundland Memorial. Newfoundland was still an independent Dominion from Canada at the time of World War I. This extraordinary memorial and ground, with the great caribou cast in bronze over the rocks, should be visited. The excellent team there welcome all visitors with great enthusiasm and knowledge. "Of the few battlefield parks in France and Belgium where the visitor can see a Great War battlefield much as it was, Beaumont Hamel is the largest. The actual trenches are still there and something of the terrible problem of advancing over such country can be appreciated by the visitor." - CWGC

33. Thiepval – Thiepval Memorial to the Missing of the Somme

From any direction, The Thiepval Memorial, at 45 metres high, towers over the surrounding landscape and remains the largest British war memorial in the world. It's an extraordinary place, iconic for its unique Lutyens shape and what it symbolises.

Built with 10 million bricks, The Thiepval Memorial is dedicated to 72,337 missing British and South African servicemen who died in the Battles of the Somme of the First World War between 1915 and 1918, with no known grave. It is also an Anglo-French Battle Memorial in recognition of the joint nature of the 1916 offensive with a cemetery containing 300 British Commonwealth and 300 French graves situated at the foot of the memorial. The inscription reads: 'That the world may remember the common sacrifice of two and a half million dead, here have been laid side by side. Soldiers of France and of the British Empire in eternal comradeship'.

There is a museum and visitors centre adjacent to the site with letters, a scale model and a life-size replica of the aeroplane belonging to Georges Guynemer the French aviator.

34. Arras – Arras City & Flying Services Memorial

The Place des Héros is covered with cafes, restaurants and you may want to time your stay with the bustling Saturday market which is excellent.

Arras is a city with the highest density of historical monuments in France; its belfry and its Citadel are UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Arras was a vital strategic hub during World War I due to its location near the Western Front.

To the north of the city, the Arras Memorial commemorates almost 35,000 servicemen from the United Kingdom, South Africa and New Zealand who were killed in the Arras sector between the spring of 1916 and 7 August 1918, the eve of the Advance to Victory, and have no known grave. It also houses the Arras Flying Services Memorial, commemorating nearly 1,000 airmen of the British Royal Flying Corps, Royal Naval Air Service, and Royal Air Force who died and have no known grave.

The most conspicuous events of this period were the Arras offensive of April-May 1917, and the German Imperial Army attack in the 'spring offensive' of 1918. From 1916, here in Arras, the Allies began preparing a diversionary attack before Le Chemin des Dames assault by the French army to the south and the city was transformed with the New-Zealand Tunnellers placed in charge of linking up the quarries to create a true underground network where 24,000 soldiers could be quartered, waiting for the offensive to start. These chalk quarries became the Wellington Quarry Museum / Carrière Wellington. In the Second World War, Arras was British HQ until being evacuated in May 1940 before the retreat to Dunkirk.

35. Arras – The Carrière Wellington

A highlight is The Carrière Wellington, a museum within walking distance of the town centre. It is a guided tour through the quarry where 24,000 allied soldiers regrouped underground before the April 1917 assaults during the Battle of Arras.

36. Arras – Mur des Fusillés

An exceptional and extremely evocative memorial is the less well known the Mur des Fusillés behind the Arras Memorial. Those who were taken here were shot, 218 being executed from August 1941 to July 1944. The white stone plaques tell the names, and as you round the corner the stark, white stone pole where the executions took place is a haunting reminder. The trees guard over these walks from the top and the remembered range from 16 years old (Julien Delval) to 69 years old (Henri Queval) and are made up of nine different nationalities: French, Polish, Belgians, Soviets, Italians, Portuguese, Czechs, Hungarians and Yugoslavs.

37. Arras – Commonwealth War Graves Experience

Something which you also may wish to add to your itinerary, to the south of Arras, is the Commonwealth War Graves Experience (open weekdays), where you can have the unique opportunity to see their carpenters and blacksmiths creating the world recognised headstones and understand how the CWGC restore and reproduce the architectural works on their sites. You can also learn about their horticulture and how the gardening transforms cemeteries all over the world.

38. Richebourg – Indian Memorial Neuve Chapelle

Erected to the 4,657 Indian soldiers and workers who lost their lives on the Western Front but have no known grave.

The Indian Corps first took part as a stand-alone unit participating in the British offensive at Neuve-Chapelle in March 1915. Approximately 1.3 million Indian soldiers served in World War One, and over 74,000 of them lost their lives.

Here in Neuve-Chapelle, at 7:30 a.m. on 10 March 1915, the British and Commonwealth forces began a thirty-five minute artillery bombardment by 90 18-pounder field guns on the German wire around the village of Neuve Chapelle, the wire and most of the town was destroyed within ten minutes. The entire attack had been designed to punch a hole in the German frontline, allowing the British to cut off the railway supplies going to the German army from Lille. The overwhelming firepower unleashed that morning meant the German fortifications were demolished, soon was followed by an infantry assault at 8:05 a.m. German defences were quickly overrun and Neuve Chapelle village was captured by 10:00 a.m. The Royal Flying Core has photographed the battlefield from above, despite the bad weather, and for the first time scale maps were handed to each corps before the assault. During the Second World War, Neuve Chapelle was again under heavy fire being a base for the Luftwaffe, note the shrapnel markings along the memorial walls.

To the west of this memorial is the only Portuguese cemetery you will find on the Western Front. Portugal remained neutral until Germany declared war on the country in 1916. Over the course of the First World War 55,000 soldiers of the Portuguese Expeditionary Force fought on the Western Front.

39. Vimy Ridge – Canadian National Memorial Vimy

The Canadian National Vimy Memorial is dedicated to the Canadian Expeditionary Force and to Canadian soldiers who were killed or missing and have no known burial site. The memorial sits on a 100-acre, well-preserved portion of the battlefield across which Canadians launched their powerful assault during the Battle of Vimy Ridge. Here at Vimy is one of the easiest places to comprehend how a battlefield was laid out, the damage done to the lands and the entire site is immaculately kept. Wartime tunnels, trenches, explosion craters and unexploded ammunition run through the area, which is largely off-limits for safety reasons. Around the preserved trench lines are several other memorials and cemeteries that are integrated into the open-air museum.

The Battle of Vimy Ridge took place from April 9 to 12, 1917 and was the first occasion on which all four divisions of the Canadian Expeditionary Force engaged in battle as a cohesive unit. This outreach became a national Canadian symbol of a self-sacrificing national effort, the German Imperial Army started calling the Canadians 'Sturmtruppen/Stormtroopers' as they were astonished by their bravery and speed. Capturing the ridge cost over 10,000 Canadians killed or wounded, and it was the single largest territorial advance by the Commonwealth forces up until that point in the war. The battle marked the first time all four Canadian divisions fought together as a unified force during the war.

The Vimy Ridge Visitors Centre offers guided tours through the original trenches, expertly led by the remarkable and knowledgeable guides. Allow yourself to appreciate Canada's crucial role in shaping the outcome and the lasting impact it had on the nation's identity.

40. Ablain-Saint-Nazaire – Notre Dame de Lorette

Notre Dame de Lorette is the world's largest French military cemetery and a must-see along the Western Front Way. From October 1914 to October 1915, the hill of Lorette was the object of fierce battles between the French army and the German Imperial Army.

Rising only 165m above sea level, this dominant position offers an exceptional observatory over the mining basin to the north and the plain of Arras to the south. In just one year, 188,000 soldiers, including 100,000 French, were killed defending or taking "the spur of Notre-Dame-de-Lorette". Immediately after the war, the site was chosen to collect the remains of soldiers from more than 150 cemeteries in Artois and French Flanders. The National Necropolis of Notre-Dame-de-Lorette is intended to commemorate the deadliest battles in this section on the Western Front (Artois, French Flanders, Belgian Flanders). Illuminated at night, the Lantern of the Dead is said to serve to guide the souls of the dead to the afterlife, to paradise. The tower houses a crypt containing both an ossuary and a chapel.

November 11, 2014, saw the inauguration of the Ring of Remembrance on which are engraved the names of 600,000 soldiers of all nationalities who were killed in French Flanders and Artois between 1914 and 1918. The names of the soldiers are engraved in alphabetical order, without distinction according to nationality, rank or religion. It is one of the most impactful memorials along the entire 1000km trail.

The view from one side of the heights looks upon the industrial mining towns and the reminder of an industry now for the most part shut down, this was once the centre of all mining for all of France. The other side, to the southeast looks towards Arras and the ruined abbey of Mont St Eloi with its own memorial to the cyclists of WWI.

41. Loos-en-Gohelle – Dud Corner & AD Gillespie

Near Loos-en-Gohelle is Dud Corner Cemetery, and here is where AD Gillespie, who first wrote about a wish for a path for peace, is remembered. His vision of a via sacra written from the trenches in 1915 became the Western Front Way. Alexander Gillespie went into the attack at Cuinchy, due north of Dud Corner cemetery on 25 September 1915 as part of the first day of the Battle of Loos and was killed while leading a charge against an enemy position: he fell as he reached the German trenches, his brother Tom had been killed weeks before. Gillespie was reading for the Bar when war broke out, as a volunteer, obtaining a commission in the 2nd Battalion Argyll and Sutherland Highlanders.

The Battle of Loos, fought between September and October 1915 was vast in scale, where poison gas used for the first time and saw the first use of volunteers from Britain. Six British divisions attacked strong German Imperial Army defences in support of French offensives to the south and it was generally viewed as a failure with over 60,000 Commonwealth soldiers killed or wounded. The counterattacks launched from the formidable Hohenzollern Redoubt by the German Imperial Army saw all the land that had been taken in the initial stages by the British lost.

42. Fromelles – Museum of the Battle of Fromelles

Discreetly placed on a wooded corner in Fromelles is the home to the Musée de la Bataille De Fromelles. The design is based on an Imperial German Army blockhouse, designed by architect David Serero, the structure appears suspended between earth and sky.

"The worst 24 hours in Australian history" is how Fromelles is described. A combined operation between British and Australian forces, it was the Australians' 'baptism of fire' on the Western Front between 19 to 20 July 1916, partly intended to be a diversion from the Battle of the Somme. 1,500 British soldiers and 5,533 Australians were killed.

The museum came about thanks to the uncovering of six mass graves in nearby Pheasant Wood in 2009, during which 250 bodies of British and Australian servicemen were found. The men were buried (after DNA testing) in the first, new CWGC cemetery in fifty years, now called 'Pheasant Wood Cemetery' which stands adjacent to the museum. The full story of how the mass graves were found, their exhumation and the subsequent work to identify the missing is told within the permanent exhibition in the museum, as is the history of the battle itself.

'We're All Australians Now' (Abridged) - by AB Banjo Paterson - 1915
Australia takes her pen in hand
To write a line to you,
To let you fellows understand
How proud we are of you.

From shearing shed and cattle run,
From Broome to Hobson's Bay,
Each native-born Australian son
Stands straighter up today.

The man who used to "hump his drum",
On far-out Queensland runs
Is fighting side by side with some'

43. Ploegsteert – Ploegsteert Memorial to the Missing

The Ploegsteert Memorial to the Missing is easily recognizable given the two mighty stone lions either side of the impressive, circular entrance. The memorial commemorates over 11,400 British and South African soldiers with no known grave, most of whom were not killed in major offensives, but in day to day trench warfare and skirmishes that supported larger battles like Ypres to the North, or Loos to the South. Across the road, north west from the memorial, is 'Plugstreet Woods' known as the 'nursery sector' where soldiers could acclimatise to the trenches before going to the frontlines, including the Christmas Truce monument.

The interpretation centre has a rich assortment of photographs from private collections and offer a glimpse into the challenges of their lives. A short film helps to understand this battle area. Comines, a German garrison to the east, stood in contrast to British-held Ploegsteert to the west and the front line of Warneton. In October 1914, it was near here that Adolf Hitler fought and was wounded with the German Imperial Army being brought to a halt after their massive first push at the beginning of the war. Extraordinarily, in 1916, a mere 2km away from where Adolf Hitler had been, Winston Churchill was stationed and the farmhouse he was in was struck by a shell, the shell head he sent back to his wife as a souvenir.

A letter written from the 1914 Christmas truce memorial nearby tells us:

"Dear Mother, I am writing from the trenches. It is 11 o'clock in the morning. Beside me is a coke fire, opposite me a 'dug-out' (wet) with straw in it. The ground is sloppy in the actual trench, but frozen elsewhere. In my mouth is a pipe presented by the Princess Mary. In the pipe is tobacco. Of course, you say. But wait. In the pipe is German tobacco. Ha-ha, you say, from a prisoner or found in a captured trench. Oh dear, no! From a German soldier. Yes a live German soldier from his own trench. Yesterday the British & Germans met & shook hands in the Ground between the trenches, & exchanged souvenirs, & shook hands. Yes, all day Xmas day, & as I write. Marvellous, isn't it?"

44. Polygon Wood – Brothers in Arms Memorial

Polygon Wood, once a military training ground, now houses the unique 'Brothers in Arms' memorial at the Brothers In Arms Memorial Park. This memorial is dedicated to commemorating pairs of brothers who fought together in the First World War. The idea behind this remarkable memorial was conceived by one individual, who campaigned for sixteen years to bring it to fruition on his own family's farmland. The story behind the memorial is extraordinary, connecting this small patch of land to a family in Australia and a mystery that remained unsolved for over fifty years. In addition to the memorial, the project leader runs the excellent café and a free museum on the first floor, where visitors can explore the full story. The addition of the Brothers-in-Arms memorial to the trail is a cause for delight, as it not only showcases the incredible statue and the bond between siblings but also honours the work of the landowner, who dedicated his life to this purpose. Make sure to seize the opportunity to speak with him at his cafe, as the story of the surrounding area is equally extraordinary.

45. Ploegsteert – Ploegsteert Memorial to the Missing

The Ploegsteert Memorial to the Missing is easily recognizable given the two mighty stone lions either side of the impressive, circular entrance. The memorial commemorates over 11,400 British and South African soldiers with no known grave, most of whom were not killed in major offensives, but in day to day trench warfare and skirmishes that supported larger battles like Ypres to the North, or Loos to the South. Across the road, north west from the memorial, is 'Plugstreet Woods' known as the 'nursery sector' where soldiers could acclimatise to the trenches before going to the frontlines, including the Christmas Truce monument.

The interpretation centre has a rich assortment of photographs from private collections and offer a glimpse into the challenges of their lives. A short film helps to understand this battle area. Comines, a German garrison to the east, stood in contrast to British-held Ploegsteert to the west and the front line of Warneton. In October 1914, it was near here that Adolf Hitler fought and was wounded with the German Imperial Army being brought to a halt after their massive first push at the beginning of the war. Extraordinarily, in 1916, a mere 2km away from where Adolf Hitler had been, Winston Churchill was stationed and the farmhouse he was in was struck by a shell, the shell head he sent back to his wife as a souvenir.

A letter written from the 1914 Christmas truce memorial nearby tells us:

"Dear Mother, I am writing from the trenches. It is 11 o'clock in the morning. Beside me is a coke fire, opposite me a 'dug-out' (wet) with straw in it. The ground is sloppy in the actual trench, but frozen elsewhere. In my mouth is a pipe presented by the Princess Mary. In the pipe is tobacco. Of course, you say. But wait. In the pipe is German tobacco. Ha-ha, you say, from a prisoner or found in a captured trench. Oh dear, no! From a German soldier. Yes a live German soldier from his own trench. Yesterday the British & Germans met & shook hands in the Ground between the trenches, & exchanged souvenirs, & shook hands. Yes, all day Xmas day, & as I write. Marvellous, isn't it?"

46. Polygon Wood – Brothers in Arms Memorial

Polygon Wood, once a military training ground, now houses the unique 'Brothers in Arms' memorial at the Brothers In Arms Memorial Park. This memorial is dedicated to commemorating pairs of brothers who fought together in the First World War. The idea behind this remarkable memorial was conceived by one individual, who campaigned for sixteen years to bring it to fruition on his own family's farmland. The story behind the memorial is extraordinary, connecting this small patch of land to a family in Australia and a mystery that remained unsolved for over fifty years.

In addition to the memorial, the project leader runs the excellent café and a free museum on the first floor, where visitors can explore the full story. The addition of the Brothers-in-Arms memorial to the trail is a cause for delight, as it not only showcases the incredible statue and the bond between siblings but also honours the work of the landowner, who dedicated his life to this purpose. Make sure to seize the opportunity to speak with him at his café, as the story of the surrounding area is equally extraordinary.